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“大白兔”奶糖成網紅,年輕人的情懷到底是什么
作者:王鐘的 來源:中國青年報 時間:2019-6-6 9:55:49 點擊數:(0)0

并沒有太多的預兆,老字號“大白兔”奶糖成了時下的網紅產品。最近,大白兔品牌方冠生園順勢開發了大白兔奶茶。據說,在上海某購物中心的快閃店,大白兔奶茶店的排隊時間動輒四五個小時,大有趕超某些時尚奶茶店之勢。

老字號大白兔奶糖的走紅,并非偶然。與之類似的,還有回力鞋、永久牌自行車,等等。一樣的配方,不變的味道,在消費方式多種多樣的當下,這些擁有幾十年歷史的老字號屹立不倒,既讓人欣慰,也讓人好奇——爹媽輩甚至祖輩的品牌,究竟有什么樣的魔力,能夠吸引口味挑剔的新生代消費力量。

消費者喜歡老字號,產品穩定的質量固然是一方面。大白兔口感穩定,也就讓消費者形成穩定的預期。在快速消費的年代,消費者不希望花太多時間用于挑選商品,有影響力、有公信力的產品,自然容易獲得更多關注。

然而,單單依賴穩定的質量,還不足以解釋為什么年輕人也加入了追捧老字號品牌的隊伍。幾乎所有喜歡老字號的年輕人,口里都離不開“情懷”二字。情懷本身無關褒貶,在當下的語境中,常常用以表達對過去生活方式的留戀。一個有情懷的人,不是一個喜新厭舊的人,在某種浮躁的社會空氣中,其人格和品性也呈現出積極的一面。

不過,認真想來,在90后、00后消費者出生成長的年代,這些老字號其實已經告別了其鼎盛期。如今30歲以下的年輕人,伴隨著市場經濟的發展進程成長,在他們的印象中,更多的是產品不斷迭代、新事物替代舊事物的記憶。拿娛樂生活來說,從小鎮破敗影院的游戲廳,到家家戶戶流行的“小霸王”,再到后來的個人電腦和游戲主機,這代年輕人從來都是在生活方式的不斷顛覆中成長的。

以年代而論,大白兔奶糖應該屬于他們父輩更熟悉的產品才是。畢竟,哪怕是最早一批90后,他們也沒有任何計劃經濟時代的記憶。家里泛黃的舊糧票,在他們眼中就是“老古董”,自然也無從體會物質貧乏年代,那些老字號產品對人們生活的意義。

為什么年輕人把這些更“年長”的品牌,當成屬于自己的情懷呢?一個重要原因或許是,在真正屬于他們的年代,生活方式激烈變化,反而留不下太多的現實記憶,而且難以維持市場需求。以90后更熟悉的干脆面來說,在全社會講究健康飲食的當下,干脆面已失去了主流市場空間。

相反,部分老字號因為質量穩定,能滿足消費者的基本需求,成為年輕人尋找情懷寄托的新方法。盡管他們年少時,對消費老字號產品,并非有太深刻的體驗,但是父輩的“言傳身教”,再加上影視作品的渲染,他們的情懷記憶就很容易被激發,被嫁接到這些老字號身上。正所謂,情懷總在失去以后,沒有真正得到過的東西,才最讓人感傷。

另一個重要原因是,如今的年輕消費者已形成了對新銳品牌和洋品牌“怯魅”的習慣。這從曾經叱咤風云的洋快餐在市場上褪去了“小資”的外衣,走親民化路線就可見一斑。人們更樂意憑商品帶來的實際體驗來選擇消費,而不再以品牌名稱為唯一的消費信仰。

商家販賣情懷,也是借力打力。現在,不僅有大白兔奶糖這樣的如假包換的老字號,也有打著情懷旗號的市場新銳。比如,某新興白酒品牌在營銷文案中說:看見你的容顏,卻已是匆匆那年。在這個喝白酒不那么“高大上”也少了許多社會認同的時代,商家為吸引年輕人想出這樣的臺詞,恐怕也是憋盡了“洪荒之力”。

不過,能贏得年輕人的老字號品牌并不多,許多老字號仍然在生存線上掙扎,失去了生產高質量產品的能力與愿景,甚至連自身的品牌權益都面臨威脅。可見,打好一張情懷牌,并不那么容易。

【責任編輯:馬越

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